Quilimboa region -2014
Sometimes, to escape the evening heat, we would go down and sit on the Barco, a boat tied along the bank of the river. These boats have been described before as two- or three-story wooden vessels with open sides, usually strung with hammocks and with plenty of space for cargo and people. This particular boat belonged to a friend named Heraldo, who was a local pastor in the region. He allowed us to use his boat while we were visiting this part of the river.
This boat was considered small, but that was actually a good thing for navigating the smaller tributaries in this area. It only drew a few feet of water and was maybe 35 feet long. It was a single-story boat, with a small kitchen in the back and open on all sides. The top of the boat was used for storage and held a large plastic water tank that supplied the kitchen and showers on the main floor.
As we sat under the shade of the boat, hanging in hammocks and desperately seeking the smallest breeze off the river, Campos was laughing with another local Brazilian. I could tell they were reminiscing about something.
As evening fell and the darkness hid the outline of the forest, I asked Campos to share the story they had been laughing about earlier. I love evenings on the boats or in the villages because, as the heat slowly dissipates, people come alive. Over a drink or a meal, they begin telling stories, and I am there with a pen or recorder in hand, ready to hear them.
Campos chuckled a bit and began to explain what had happened one night on this very boat.
It seemed that Campos, Heraldo, and a mutual friend named Bruno had been doing some work in the local villages a few years earlier. Heraldo was invited to speak at a huge village celebration and agreed to do so. They tied the boat along the bank of the village and had a wonderful celebration throughout the afternoon.
The village had slaughtered a large cow and gifted a side of beef to Heraldo as a thank-you for coming to speak that day. Since they had no refrigeration on the boat, Campos and Bruno salted the beef to keep it from spoiling and hung it on the back, open part of the boat, hoping the breeze would dry the salted meat as much as possible in the humid environment.
These villages love company, and even though they needed to move on, Heraldo agreed to speak again in the evening. Campos and Bruno decided to rest on the boat until his return later that night.
As darkness slowly fell, Campos and Bruno did what we all do on hot evenings: kick our feet up, hang in a hammock, drink some evening coffee, and talk about life. Both were comfortably seated on the front bow of the boat, just relaxing under the jungle darkness.
What I failed to mention is that Heraldo’s boat motor was not functioning, so he was being towed around the river by another smaller boat with an outboard motor. Without a working motor, the electrical system on the boat was also not functioning. So, without lights or electricity, they enjoyed the evening darkness and stars as only the dark Amazon can provide.
Fully aware of how dark the night can become, Campos grabbed the only flashlight on the boat and set it next to his chair. They would need it to guide Heraldo back to the boat as he walked along the riverbank later that evening.
So, what did Heraldo find later that evening when he returned?
No flashlight to guide him in.
No friends waiting on the bow of the boat.
Just two guys hiding in the water tank, soaked to the skin, on top of the boat and laughing at their predicament.
It seems that as darkness fell, Campos heard some splashing around the side of the boat. No big deal. There is always splashing around the riverbanks. Bruno heard it as well, but because Campos didn’t show any concern, he simply sat back and continued the conversation.
The splashing continued off and on.
Then suddenly, the boat lurched hard to the port side.
Both Campos and Bruno lost their balance as they stood and looked over to investigate.
“Grab the flashlight!” Bruno yelled.
Campos fumbled around in the darkness and, to his dismay, discovered that the flashlight was low on batteries. It threw only the faintest bit of light over the situation.
On the back of the boat, attracted by the smell of the salted, drying beef, was a huge jaguar, teeth and claws working as it tried to make off with a side of beef.
As you can imagine, chaos ensued.
With an ever-dimming flashlight, a jaguar on the back of the Barco, and Campos and Bruno on the front, everyone scrambled toward what they thought was safety.
The jaguar eventually abandoned its prize and disappeared back into the darkness of the shoreline.
Campos and Bruno decided that the safest place to be was up.
And up they went.
Climbing to the top of the boat in the darkness, they scrambled over boxes, ropes, and gear that had been stored there. They were convinced the jaguar wasn’t going to give up that easily and would be back shortly.
Finally, they reached what they believed was the safest place they could find.
A large plastic water tank filled with river water.
That was where they remained until Heraldo finally yelled from the bank, wondering where everyone had gone.
Heraldo had been accompanied by several villagers for safety as they walked back to the boat. When they finally discovered where Campos and Bruno were hiding, everyone had a good laugh.
Although, apparently, nobody had been laughing earlier.
The villagers confirmed that the same jaguar had been visiting the area recently. Earlier in the week, it had made off with some dogs and had also stolen meat that had been hung out to dry
Ghost in the Darkness
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